Candle 79 is a surprising spot — a delicious vegan restaurant on the Upper East Side, of all places, with grown-up decor, of all things. It's a neighborhood restaurant that knows its clientele (less the bedhead crowd of Angelica Kitchen or the couples-on-dates at Pure Food and Wine than adults in ironed shirts) and serves the most sophisticated vegan fare north of downtown. With grilled seitan with chimichurri, spring harvest paella, and mojitos with organic sake, Candle 79 is one of the better dinners in the 10021.

Candle 79, 154 E. 79th Street, New York City; 212-537-7179.